Ujjain,
also known by the names of Unain, Ujjayini, Avanti and Avantikapuri is a
historic city located in the Malwa region of Madha Pradesh in central
India. Ujjain is situated on the eastern bank of the holy River Shipra and is
one of the seven sacred cities for Hindus. It is the administrative centre of
Ujjain District and Ujjain Division.
In
ancient times the city was called Ujjayini. The reference of city is found in
Mahabharata epic, Ujjayini was the capital of the Avanti Kingdom. Hindus
believe that during "Sagar Manthan", one drop of nectar spilled over
Ujjain and two parts of Skanda Purana were written here. Ujjain is one the
seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) of the Hindus, and the Kumbh Mela religious
festival is held there every 12th year.
It is also home to Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga, one of the twelve
Jyotirlinga shrines to the God Shiva and is also the place where Lord Krishna
got education with Balarama and Sudama from Maharshi Sandipani.
Ujjain
is a perfect treat for religious tourists from Hindu religion. The city has
numerous old temples that hold high significance in the Hindu culture. Other
than the religious tourist spots, tourists can enjoy the astronomical centers
like Ujjain Observatory and old caves like Bhartrihari
caves.
Ujjain
History
The
early history of Ujjain is lost in the midst of antiquity. As early as the time
of the Aryan settlers, Ujjain seems to have acquired importance. By the 6th
century B.C. Avanti with its capital at Ujjaini, is mentioned in Buddhist
literature as one the four great powers along with Vatsa, Kosala and Magadha. It
is also reputed to have been the residence of Ashoka (who subsequently
became the emperor), when he was the viceroy of the western provinces of the
Mauryan empire. Ujjain lay on the main trade route between North India and
Deccan going from Mathura via Ujjain to Mahismati (Maheshwar) on the Narmada,
and on to Paithan on the Godavari, western Asia and the West.
Following
the enthroning of the Gupta dynasty, the city soon became an important seat in
the annals of that empire. Ujjain is considered to be the traditional capital
of King Chandragupta II, also known as Vikramaditya, at whose court the nine
poets known as the navaratna (nine jewels) of Sanskrit literature
are said to have flourished.
In
the 10th and 11th centuries, Ujjain was a major centre of mathematical and
astronomical research. The famous mathematicians who worked there included:
Brahmagupta, whose book Brahmasphutasiddhanta was responsible for spreading the
use of zero, negative numbers and the positional number system to Arabia and
Cambodia; Varahamihira, who was the first to discover many trigonometric
identities; and Bhaskaracharya, or Bhaskara II, whose book Lilavati broke new
ground in many areas of mathematics.
The
earliest known epigraphic record of the Paramaras, the Harsola Granth, issued
at the beginning of the 10th century AD, maintains that the kings of the
Paramara dynasty were born in the family of the Rastrakutas in the Deccan The
early Paramara chiefs of Malwa were probably vassals of the Rastrakutas. The
Udaypur Prasati, mentions Vakpati Vakpati I as the king of Avanti and it was
probably in his region that the Rastrakuta Indra III halted at Ujjain while
advancing with his army against the Pratihara Mahipala I. Malwa was lost in the
time of Vakpati's successor, Vairisimha II, to the invading forces of Mahipala
I who avenged his defeat at the hands of Indra III by invading the empire of
Rastrakuta. Mahipala and his Kalachuri confederate Bhamanadeva are said to have
conquered the territory up to the banks of the Narmada including Ujjain and
Dhar. The Paramara sovereignty in the Malwa ceased until AD 946 when Vairsimha
II became dominant in the area. It is in his son Siyaka II's reign that the
independent Paramara rule in Malwa began. It is believed that it was this time
that the capital was shifted to the area of the Mahakala Vana in Ujjain. From
the 9th to the 12th centuries, the Paramaras became so identified with Ujjain
that subsequent tradition has converted Vikramaditya into a Paramara. The last
Paramara ruler, Siladitya, was captured alive by the Sultans of Mandu, and
Ujjain passed into the hands of the Muslims.
Thus
began a long era of misfortune and decay and the ancient glory of Ujjayini was
lost in a morass of repeated inroads of attacking hordes. The invasion of
Ujjain by Iltutmish in 1234 triggered off a systematic desecration and
despoiling of temples. This tide of destruction was stemmed only in the time of
Baz Bahadur of Mandu. The Mughal rule heralded a new era in reconstruction.
Emperor Akbar put an end to Baz Bahadur's hegemony over Malwa and had a city
wall constructed for the defense of Ujjain. The Nadi Darwaza, Kaliadeh Darwaza,
Sati Darwaza, Dewas Darwaza and Indore Darwaza were the various entrances to
the city. In 1658 took place a battle near Ujjain in which Aurangzeb and Murad
defeated Maharaj Jaswant Singh of Jodhpur, who was fighting on behalf of Prince
Dara. The actual scene of the battle is Dharmatpura, renamed Fatehbad by
Aurangzeb, after the victory. The cenotaph of Raja Rattan Singh of Ratlam, who
fell in the battle, still stands at the site. In the reign of Mahmud Shah,
Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh was made the Governor of Malwa, a great scholar of
astronomy, he had the observatory at Ujjain reconstructed and built several
temples.
At
the beginning of the 17th century, Ujjain and Malwa went through another
period of seize and invasion at the hands of the Marathas, who gradually
captured the entire region. The Maratha domination of Malwa gave impetus to a
cultural renaissance in the region and modern Ujjain came into being. Most of
the temples of Ujjain were constructed during this period. It was during this
time that Ujjain became the meeting ground of painters of the Poona and Kangra
styles. The impact of the two different styles of painting is distinctive. The
examples of Maratha style are found in the temples of Ram Janardan, Kal
Bhairava, Kalpeshwar and Tilakeshwar while the traditional Malwa style can be
seen in the Sandipani Ashram and in many large houses of the local seths.
During
the last half of the 18th century Ujjain was the headquarters of the Maratha
leader Scindia. The Scindias later established themselves at Gwalior, and
Ujjain remained part of Gwalior state until Indian Independence in 1947.
Gwalior state became a princely state of the British Raj after the Maratha
defeat in the Third Anglo Maratha War, and Gwalior, Ujjain, and the neighboring
princely states were made a part of the Central India. After Indian
Independence, the scindia ruler of Gwalior acceded to the Indian Union, and
Ujjain became part of the Madhya Bharat state. In 1956 Madhya Bharat was merged
into the Madhya Pradesh State.
Today,
Ujjain abounds in temples, hoary old tradition attached to each of them. But
though most of them have been built upon sites of antiquity, none of them has
survived in the original splendor. Desecrated and despoiled time and time
again, the structures that stand today are of more recent date, renovated or
rebuilt over the years. And yet, the temples form an integral part of the city
and contribute to the continuity of Ujjain's tradition of greatness.
Ancient
monuments and tourist sites in Ujjain
Mahakaleshwara
Temple
Mahakaleshwar
temple is a must visit in Ujjain, which is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas in India
dedicated to Lord Shiva. The Shivling in this temple is supposed to be the only
Jyotirling which faces south and hence it is known as Dakshinmukhi or the
south-facing ling. It is the most popular and important temple of Ujjain. Every
year on Shivratri (claimed to be the wedding day of Lord Shiva), there is a
huge crowd of devotees for darshan. The same kind of public crowd can be seen
in the month of Savaan, Nagpanchami. On every Monday of "Savan",
there is a huge procession for the Lord Shiva idol in the city attended by
large numbers of devotees from across the India. In the temple there are statues of Ganesh,
Parvati and Karttikeya placed in the west, north and east of the sanctum
sanctorum and to the south is Nandi.
It
is believed that Mahakal dominates the life of Ujjain city and its
people. The unique feature of the temple is its tantric tradition that is
to be found only in Ujjain Mahakaleshwar among the 12 Jyotirlingas. Bhasm Arti,
which involves smearing the linga with ashes from the burning ghats is
conducted at Mahakaleshwar temple as respect to the destroyer of universe, Lord
Shiva.
Bhartrihari
Caves
The
Bharthari caves is an ancient site which has some interesting legends
associated with it. Bhartrihari caves, situated just above the bank of the
River Shipra in Ujjain, is the spot where Bhartrihari lived and
meditated after renouncing worldly life. Bhartrihari was a great
scholar, poet and the step brother of King Vikramaditya, whose famous work
include Shringarshataka, Vairagyashataka, and Nitishataka.
It
is said that it holds tunnels which lead directly to 4 ancient dhams (char
dham). These ways were later shut down by Britishers.
Kal
Bahirav Temple
Kal
Bhairav temple of Ujjain is enshrined with the idol of Kal Bhairava, who is the
fierce manifestation of Lord Shiva. The temple is well known for its
exquisite painting in Malwa style. Bhairava is believed to have been a
part of the Kapalika and Aghora sects that are associataed with 'Tantra' (black
magic). Tourists can find holy men with ash smeared on their body
and liquor being offered as a part of the ritual to Kal Bhairava. Close by
is the village of Bhairogarh, famous for its ancient technique in cloth
printing.
Harsiddhi
Temple
Harsiddhi
Temple is one of the shaktipeeths of Hindu Mythology, dedicated to Goddess
Annapurna. The idol of Goddess Annapurna is made up of a rock painted in dark
vermilion color, and seated between Mahalaxmi and Mahasaraswati. Another
tourist attraction of Harsiddhi temple is Sri Yantra, the symbol of power or
Shakti. The temple has two unique iron lamp sheds where hundreds of lamps can
burn simultaneously giving the tourists a wonderful sight.
Kaliadesh
Palace
The
Kaliyadeh Palace, located on the north of the city, is one of the palaces
belonging to royal Scindia family of Madhya Pradesh. Kaliadeh palace,
situated on the banks of the Shipra in Ujjain, is a 15th century palace that
was built by the sultans of Mandu. The palace is a beautiful example of
Persian architecture with unique features like central halls, galleries,
man-made tanks and Persian inscriptions. Though now in ruins, the palace still
provides a glorious look with River Shipra flowing on both sides of the palace.
Chintamani
Ganesh
A
temple of considerable antiquity and popular place of pilgrimage, the idol here
is believed to be self formed
Sri Sri
Radha Madan Temple
Sri
Sri Radha Madan Mohan Temple, of the ISKCON (International Society for
Krishna Consciousness) or Hare Krishna Movement, also has a guest house
and restaurant, and is a major attraction for tourists, though it is very new
on the map of Ujjain.
Sandipani
Ashram
The
Sandipani Ashram is where tradition says Shri Krishna was educated
with Balrama and Sudama from Maharshi Sandipani.
Chhatri
Canopy
(Chhatri or Dewali) of Veer Durgadas Rathore "the Great Warrior
and protector of Marwar" at Chakratirth.
The
Observatory
The
Observatory (Vedha Shala) built by a Rajput king, Raja Jai Singh II, in
the 1720s, is one of the five such observatories in India and features ancient
astronomical devices.
Jain
temples: Jai Singh Pura Atishay Kshetra, Tapobhoomi, Avanti Parshwanath,
Hanumant Baag, Manibhadradham Bhairavgarh.
The
throne of Maharaja Vikramaditya, known as the "seat of judgment
(salabanjika throne)" may be located in the Rudra Sagar lake.
Other
temples are Harsidhhi (Durga Temple), Gadh Kalika, Kaal Bhairav, Triveni (Nav
Graha Shani Mandir), Mangalnaath, Siddhhanath and Shiv Shakti.
